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Lost in Translation Discovering the gordita. By Kazia Jankowski April 2008 Twice a week, Arnold Rubio, Tamayo's chef de cuisine, eats gorditas for lunch. Of all the meals on Tamayo's acclaimed menu, he opts for a dish of fried corn tortilla-like masa filled with spicy chipotle-rubbed chicken, shredded lettuce, cheese, tomato, and pico de gallo. The meal is quick, filling, and flavorful—just the energizing fast food Rubio needs before he goes back to the line. If Rubio were in Mexico, the homeland of the gordita, his lunch might not be much different. In a short 15-minute break, he'd pop over to a street-side stand and gobble up the dish that's as ubiquitous as the taco. From northern Mexico to the southern Yucatán, gorditas are an all-hour snack that bridges the gaps between breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Made with thick fried or baked tortillas or masa, gorditas wrap fillings as varied as mushrooms, fried pork chicharrónes, or beans, cheese, and chiles. Despite their Mexican popularity, gorditas haven't quite caught on in the United States. The problem is not availability, as countless local eateries serve them either as specials or everyday menu options. Even Taco Bell offers three variations. But as chef Sean Yontz, Mexican food expert and co-owner of Mezcal and Tambien, suggests, diners view the gordita as less familiar, and thus less accessible. "People love gorditas when we sell them. But the fish taco is still one of our most popular dishes," he says. "It's just going to take time for diners to know what gorditas are." We're confident, however, that once diners discover the dish, they're likely to end up like Rubio—eating gorditas twice a week for lunch. Here's a list of our favorite gordita-serving spots. Tamayo La Loncheria El Taco de Mexico Tacos Jalisco Mezcal |
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