Dining

Dining Reviews

By
June 1997

Bottom line, Brasserie Z is one of the best looking restarants in town. Too bad you can't eat the decor.

If you've ever been to Paris, you've no doubt encountered a true brasserie. The dictionary describes it as "a sallon or beer garden that serves foot." My memory tells me a brasserie is an unassuming little joint that might be a touch fancier than a bistro, but cerainly not elegant, and never fussy. Duck confit, lamb shanks, and maybe an oyster bar. Oh, and Maurice Chevalier's cousin passed out in the corner

1. Brasserie Z
By Thom Wise

815 17th St., 303-293-2322
Atmosphere .................... 10
Classy, urbane, and very "Denver grown up."
Food .................... 5
Let's just call it a work in progress.
Booze .................... 8
Great martini presentation and a big wine list.
Healthy Choices .................... 6
Not many choices unfortunately.
Service .................... 4
Lots of attitude, but show me the skills.
People Watching .................... 9
Wide open spaces for best possible viewing. Ask for table 15 - it's the best.
Bathrooms .................... 0
Not fair to judge - still under construction.
Overall .................... 6.5
Beautiful to look at, delightful to show, let's just give it some time to grow.

 

2. Bang!
Another neighborhood restaurant leaps into the spotlight. A fun place to go when you get hankering for some American food.