Hotel restaurants aren’t what they used to be. Hallelujah for that. Mirepoix, open in the J.W. Marriott since June 1, follows the national trend of anchoring upscale hotels with boutique, big-name-chef restaurants. Mirepoix’s “big name” is executive chef Bryan Moscatello, whom Denver first met when he opened Adega Restaurant & Bar two years ago.
Although named after the simple, essential culinary mix of carrots, onions, and celery, Mirepoix ups the ante on simplicity. Moscatello spins vegetable-inspired cuisine and seasonal ingredients into culinary tours de force. Order the hash for breakfast and receive succulent beef-cheek hash topped with a velvety fried duck egg. Order borscht for lunch and savor a golden watermelon soup with red beet chips and vanilla crema. “The golden borscht is a perfect example of what Mirepoix can be,” explains Moscatello. “Bright, crisp, fresh melon; beet chips with deep, roasted flavor; milk foam gives it that luxury, and the vanilla foam is a hint of the exotic.”