November 2006

Not all samosas are created equal: Most of the savory turnovers taste like nothing more than fried dough. But then you taste Karma's Persian version—lightly fried flatbread triangles stuffed with organic potatoes, carrots, peas, turmeric, onions, salt, pepper—and realize this is street food at its best. "The turmeric," says Faatma Mehrmanesh, one of Karma's three owners, "is what makes these Iranian rather than Indian." The eight-month-old East Highland health cafe draws hungry diners from downtown, Confluence Park, and Highland, and Mehrmanesh has been pleased with the dish's popularity—particularly because it's her family's recipe. "Someone suggested we do them as a special and we did, for about a month, before we realized we had to have them on the menu." Now it's a permanent item—$7 buys you two piping-hot samosas, cucumber dipping sauce, and a side salad. Karma is now closed.