Best Bites

Fritto Misto Locanda del Borgo

May 2008

Very few places give calamari its due. More often than not, the squid arrives heavily fried and limp, tasteless and rubbery. Enter the fritto misto, a superstar version of the app, at Hilltop's Locanda del Borgo Italian restaurant. Chef-owner Giancarlo Macchiarella's inspiration was simply to improve on a dish that has become ubiquitous. "Everyone is serving calamari...so I mixed in more fish like scallops and shrimp, instead of just plain calamari." He also changed up the breading, taking inspiration from Japanese tempura. You'll taste the difference when the paper-lined cone arrives filled with delicately fried scallops, shrimp, artichoke hearts, zucchini— and, of course, calamari. Locanda del Borgo, 5575 E. Third Ave., 303-388-0282, www.locanda-del-borgo.com