Dining

American Pie

The whoopie pie—a New England staple—stakes its claim in the Rocky Mountain West.

June 2009

Ho Hos. Ding Dongs. Whoopie pies? Yes, whoopie pies—those decadent disks of devil's food cake sandwiching marshmallow icing that, like their mass-produced brethren, are a mouthful of nostalgia, a culinary reminder of less complicated times. We love them, and so, apparently, does Denver, as the pies, and variations thereof, have been popping up in local bakeries. Created by the Amish in Pennsylvania Dutch country as a way to use up extra cake batter, these treats have now become the main event. Here's where to find some of the best—and most interesting—local versions.

Fuel Café
Owner Bob Blair has been making the same recipe for almost 30 years—the first time was for a bake sale when he was 12. To ensure an authentic flavor, he imports Marshmallow Fluff from the East Coast. 3455 Ringsby Court, No. 105, 303-296-4642

Marczyk Fine Foods
Pastry chef John Hinman slathers devil's food with rich mascarpone icing spiked with Tahitian vanilla beans. Consider this a gourmet riff on the old-fashioned sweet. 770 E. 17th Ave., 303-894-9499

Sweet Action Ice Cream
Owner Sam Kopicko swirls hunks of the delight (made locally by Sugar Bakeshop) into her homemade and decadent vanilla and chocolate ice creams. Each batch uses the equivalent of six three-inch pies—a ratio that ensures dozens of perfect spoonfuls. 52 Broadway, 303-282-4645