Lola 1575 Boulder St., 720-570-8686, www.loladenver.com. "Toes in the sand. Blue water. Hazy skies. Ice cold beer." That's how chef Jamey Fader describes the inspiration behind Lola's fish enchiladas. On the plate that translates to corn tortillas stuffed with hunks of mild halibut and an unctuous—almost currylike—combination of green chile spiked with tomatillo and finished with cream. The delicate coastal flavors are redolent of a beach vacation, even when you're enjoying them at a mile above sea level.
We first fell in love with these enchiladas (albeit an earlier interpretation) five years ago when Lola bustled on Old South Pearl Street. Now it's back on the menu, and each carefully crafted bite takes us one step closer to the Mexican shoreline.