Dining

Best Bites: Cebolla Gratinade

February 2011

Sit down at a Mexican restaurant and you hardly expect to see onion soup on the menu. Tortilla, menudo, or posole—yes. Onion—no. El Diablo chef and partner Sean Yontz shrugs at the contradiction and explains that he loves French onion soup so much that he wanted to work it onto the menu. And so, he Mexican-ized it. The base—rich beef broth—is traditional, but he caramelizes the soup’s onions with habanero chiles for heat and steeps them with the herb epazote for earthiness. Once ladled into a bowl, Yontz tops the crock with a bolillo (essentially a Mexican baguette) crouton and melted queso Enchilado, a gooey cheese similar to Muenster. It's a quintessential Western riff on the French classic. El Diablo, 101 Broadway, 303-954-0324, eldiablorestaurant.com