Dining

In My Kitchen: Brendon Doyle, City, O'City

April 2011

Third-generation Colorado native Brendon Doyle grew up helping his mom prepare family dinners, but it was the tough, yet nurturing Rachel Woolcott, owner of now-closed Aix Restaurant, whom he describes as the mother of his culinary career. Doyle later developed his love of Italian-inspired dishes during his time at Campo de Fiori, where he began as a line cook but was quickly promoted to chef. Hoping to “explore food in a different way,” Doyle began cooking without meat. Now executive chef at the vegetarian restaurant City, O’ City, Doyle’s favorite quote, from New York chef Amanda Cohen is fitting: “Anyone can cook a hamburger, but leave the vegetables to the professionals.”

Food Revolution Doyle describes himself as “alt” and enjoys the local alternative art scene. This graphic piece, titled Think Revolt Repeat, evokes in him a sense of rebellion. “Being the chef at City, O’ City is like being part of a vegetarian revolution.”

In a Pickle If it can be pickled, Doyle will do it. Among his homemade condiments is a giant jar of pickled-to-perfection Colorado cucumbers. His most recent adventure? “Pickled whole baby rainbow carrots.”

Cheers The long hours spent in the City, O’ City kitchen inspired Doyle to create a space at home for relaxation. Among the impressive liquor collection, his well-stocked bar often houses seasonal items such as citrus fruits and cherries. His favorite drink of the moment: the blood orange old fashioned.

Colorado Native Doyle is Denver through and through, and a large, artsy print of the city’s neighborhoods hangs above his home bar. Even the Denver-area native, however, hasn’t heard of every ’hood portrayed in this piece of art.

Meatless Loaf with a Coffee and Left Hand Milk Stout Gravy
(yields 1 loaf)

  • 10 cloves garlic
  • 1 shallot
  • 1 pound mixed mushrooms, roasted
  • 3 cups cooked quinoa (black or white)
  • 1 cup olive oil
  • 2 cups all-purpose or rice flour
  • Salt and pepper
  • Glaze:
  • ½ cup ketchup
  • 2 tablespoons chile and garlic sauce

Preheat oven to 375°. In a food processor, pulse the garlic and shallot until chopped. Add mushrooms and process until ground. Add quinoa and process with mixture. Slowly add oil to loosen. When mixture is blended, pour into a mixing bowl. Season with salt and pepper to taste. With a rubber spatula, fold in flour until mixture is cohesive and not sticky to the touch.

Coat a loaf pan with nonstick spray. Put the mixture in the loaf pan. Press and level the top with the spatula. Coat the top with the ketchup glaze. Bake for 45 minutes to 1 hour. Let rest for 10 minutes before cutting.

For gravy:

  • 1 yellow onion, chopped
  • 1 sprig fresh thyme
  • 2 tablespoons flour
  • 1 bottle Left Hand Milk Stout
  • 6 ounces brewed coffee
  • 3 ounces vegetable stock
  • Salt and pepper

Sauté the onion in olive oil. When slightly caramelized, add the thyme. Add salt and pepper. Add the flour and stir with a wooden spoon, creating a roux. Deglaze with the milk stout and stir with a whisk to incorporate the roux. When the beer has reduced slightly, add coffee and stock. Simmer to desired consistency.