Photography by Carmel Zucker
By:
Issue: March 2013
Section: Feature
Tags: Uncle, The Universal, The Squeaky Bean, The Populist, Spuntino, Sassafras American Eatery, Oak at Fourteenth, Amerigo Delicatus Restaurant & Market
Best New Restaurants 2013
The local culinary scene has never been brighter. This year’s crop of new restaurants is vibrant, relevant, and, above all, delicious. Book your table now.
Sassafras American Eatery
JEFFERSON PARK
In just nine months, Sassafras American Eatery has found a way to make its Jefferson Park space feels as if it’s been there for years. Inside the historic William J. Dunwoody house (built in 1889), time slows ever so slightly—which suits chef Colin Mallet just fine. Born and bred in Louisiana, Mallet cooks generously; the breakfast and lunch menu overflows with towering eggs Benedict, spicy jambalaya, and hot beignets. Sassafras may be down-home, but there’s still finesse: astringent sun-dried tomato vinaigrette cuts the heft of fried green tomatoes, local mushrooms star in the silky gravy, and pickled pepper jam nestles up against crispy fried chicken. The warm service, homey farm tables, and bohemian details all leave a strong impression—and the feeling that you’ll be back before long.
Hot Seat: Large (and lucky) groups score the round table in front of the picture window.
Don’t Miss: Gooey butter cake
2637 W. 26th Ave., 303-433-0080, sassafrasamericaneatery.com




