Feature

Best New Restaurants 2013

The local culinary scene has never been brighter. This year’s crop of new restaurants is vibrant, relevant, and, above all, delicious. Book your table now.

March 2013

The Populist
NORTH LARIMER
Everyone seems to be trying to claim North Larimer: It’s been called Five Points and RiNo, but this area has its own artisanal identity. And it’s exploding: The Infinite Monkey Theorem recently relocated its winery to 32nd and Larimer streets; Novo Coffee is headquartered nearby; and Our Mutual Friend Malt & Brew, Crema Coffee House, Nooch Vegan Market, and Hutch & Spoon are all within a few blocks. One other newcomer is the Populist, an eclectic and inviting four-month-old restaurant. The unofficial motto—food for the people—seems noncommittal, until you notice that entrées top out at $18, a seven-course tasting menu for two runs about $70, and dishes such as chicken liver mousse and braised beef cheeks anchor the menu. That doesn’t mean that co-owners Jonathan Power and Noah Price (full disclosure: Price happens to be my distant cousin) aren’t pushing the limits—see the huitlacoche agnolotti, an earthy corn fungus stuffed inside delicate pasta. There’s also substance: The menu is written with no descriptions so that you have to interact with your server. And the waitstaff is spectacular—cool, knowledgeable, and as humble as the restaurant itself.

Hot Seat: The banquettes are tucked in and comfortable.
Don’t Miss: Bacon and egg, smoked trout rillettes
3163 Larimer St., 720-432-3163, thepopulistdenver.com

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