Eat & Drink

Starting Over

Bread and butter is no longer an afterthought—it’s a course in itself. Just be prepared to pony up, because many of the best offerings aren’t free.

May 2013

Soft Pretzels
Complimentary and warm, pretzels set the tone at Old Major in Lower Highland. The salted, doughy knots arrive on a wooden plank with a quenelle of butter. And this isn’t just any butter; it’s a subtle mustard-blended variety that adds sophistication to each bite.
Complimentary, 3316 Tejon St., 720-420-0622, oldmajordenver.com

Flatbread
The Mediterranean-style flatbread served at Boulder’s Café Aion isn’t as simple as it looks. The soft, chewy dough is pulled thin, then grilled. Taste it, and you’ll find that each char line provides a hint of smoke, while sprinklings of charnushka (small, earthy black seeds) and fleur de sel offer bursts of flavor. The final touch is a pool of light Spanish olive oil served alongside for dipping.
$5, 1235 Pennsylvania Ave., Boulder, 303-993-8131, cafeaion.com

Pimento Cheese Biscuits
House-made, fresh-baked, and butter-rich, Devil’s Food Bakery and Cookery’s biscuits are excellent on their own. But order the showstopping pimento cheese version, and you’re rewarded with biscuits that are split open, slathered with the tangy spread, drizzled with chipotle honey, and sprinkled with green onions.
$6, 1020 S. Gaylord St., 303-733-7448, devilsfooddenver.com

Buttermilk Bread
It’s no wonder that the pain d’epi (interconnected rolls shaped to resemble a wheat stalk) served at LoDo’s Jax Fish House and Oyster Bar has a homey feel. Chef Amos Watts remembers his grandmother Imogene keeping the recipe taped inside her kitchen cabinet. Today, he serves the loaf (which he named after her) to diners with a side of whipped, salty honey butter.
$3, 1539 17th St., 303-292-5767, jaxdenver.com