Feature

Best New Restaurants 2014

March 2014

LOWER48 KITCHEN

Neighborhood: Ballpark
Opened: December 2013 

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What’s refreshing about Lower48? For one thing, the prices. Little bites (called “Each” on the menu—as in, one nibble for each person) top out at $2.50 apiece. This is a steal for a taste of co-owner and executive chef Alexander Figura’s exquisite cooking. Figura’s resumé includes stints at Frasca Food and Wine, Blue Hill at Stone Barns in New York, and El Celler de Can Roca, a three-star Michelin restaurant in Girona, Spain. At Lower48, Figura blends artisanal, heritage, and farm-to-table philosophies with high-tech, modern skillfulness. The balance of those seemingly opposing sensibilities is clear from the start of each meal, with snacks such as hoecakes with citrus-cured salmon and horseradish, each topped with a flash-fried caperberry and a dried wisp of kumquat. The menu—inspired by the culinary traditions of the lower 48 states—continues thoughtfully as you move on to items like braised octopus bathed in a sweet onion broth with rancho gordo butter beans, clams, and sourdough croutons. Under Figura and co-owner Mario Nocifera, Lower48 is intelligent and provoking—and it’s sure to be just the thing to draw diners to a yet-to-be-discovered corner of Ballpark. 2020 Lawrence St., 303-942-0262, lower48kitchen.com

 

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