Feature

Best New Restaurants 2014

March 2014

THE CURTIS CLUB

Neighborhood: Ballpark
Opened: November 2013 
curtis2

Barn wood, tin ceiling tiles, tractor-seat stools, wagon wheels—such archetypal details could feel hackneyed. But not at the Curtis Club, where these design elements coexist with refined features like the backbar’s lush, distressed photograph of a tree-lined lake; dining room chairs upholstered in sweeping ivory and gold patterns; ruby-red wallpaper etched with gold; and a magnificent feathered and horned sculpture. It’s an apt setting for chef Eric Johnson’s New American cuisine. Johnson, who cooked at the Flagstaff House for eight years, didn’t set out to Westernize the menu, though. Sure, there’s game (bison and rabbit), but the bison is turned into Bolognese and served over almond fettuccini with house-made ricotta; the rabbit loin comes wrapped in crispy pancetta and dotted with preserved lemon. The Maine lobster sits on creamy, lardon-flavored grits, and the trio of sliders includes beef, Colorado bass, and vegetarian patties. This is food that, like the restaurant’s congenial vibe, combines everyday appeal with fine-dining finesse. 2100 Curtis St., 720-420-9898, thecurtisclub.com

 

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