Best New Restaurants 2014

March 2014


Neighborhood: City Park North
Opened: November 2013 


Some cities boast an abundance of small, intimate restaurants. Portland, Oregon, is one; Philadelphia is another. The Plimoth feels like an ode to those cherished dining experiences in which one server works the room and the bartender doubles as the front of the house manager. The Plimoth’s space holds 40 seats, and the majority of the diners come from the North City Park and Mayfair neighborhoods. But once people taste chef Pete Ryan’s classically inspired dishes that lean on French technique, word will catch on, and these tables will be some of the most difficult in town to get. Quite simply, Ryan, formerly of Z Cuisine and Cook Street School of Culinary Arts, is creating a menu that’s not to be missed: Thanks to two days of marinating in red wine and beef stock, braised beef shanks are unctuous, while tasting slightly smoky from a bacon-y sauce. Pierogies sit like pillows next to jewel-tone pieces of salmon garnished with baby frisée. The cauliflower-turnip gratinée is destined to become the Plimoth’s signature item. Served in a miniscule cast-iron skillet, the cozy dish is a fitting metaphor for a restaurant that fills a void in the Denver scene. 2335 28th Ave., 303-297-1215, theplimoth.com


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