Table of contents 5280 October 2002
As our appetites and palates opened up to new restaurant adventures and discoveries in 2002, somewhere along the eating trail, I realized that Denver had become, for the first time, a bona fide chef-driven town.
Warren Hamilton is a tiny elderly fellow with a head of thin, white hair and a severe expression on his face. He says things such as, "I've studied enough to know when I'm right and when I'm wrong. Everybody else is wrong."
Give a kid some crayons and ask him to draw a house, and the result will probably look a lot like a Denver Square. You see them all over the city, those cubic, two-story brick houses from the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Sturdy, statelly, and, yes, boxy, the Denver Square - genericallly known as a Foursquare, and not unique to the Mile-High City - is a paragon of architectural efficiency, offering a large amount of interior space on smallish lots. Although they are simpler and less detailed than the ornate Queen Annes that preceded them, their relative plainness has always been part of their appeal.
Besides fine food and quality service, what does it take to make a successful restaurant? A little thing called buzz and a pro who can spin it just right.