A month ago, chef
Benny Kaplan opened
Shazz Cafe and Bar at West 44th Avenue and Lowell Boulevard. The focus: local, seasonal, and farm-to-table--all in a cozy setting.
Shazz is certainly not the first area restaurant to draw
inspiration from the Slow Food movement , but clean and seasonally appropriate ingredients--look for persimmons, pomegranates, blood oranges, root veggies, and winter squash on the menu--indicate that the restaurant could eventually join the
ranks of neighborhood favorites like Duo .
While the muscovy duck breast entrée and the red oak salad could use a bit more finesse, I can't stop thinking about the pan-fried haloumi cheese appetizer garnished with gorgeous caperberries, a zing of fresh lemon, and a scattering of herbs. I hear the pistachio kulfi (a dense Indian-style ice cream) is not to be missed, and I'll be sure to return for the treat--not to mention the thoughtful service and the interesting, locally inspired menu.
4262 Lowell Blvd., 303-477-1407