Knowing it can be tough for diners to find a fish-friendly red wine, Jax Fish House [2] recently launched its own private label Pinot Noir. I stopped in to sample a glass and ordered the nightly special---fish tacos---to accompany it. At the very least, I thought, the wine would be designed to pair with whatever is on the specials board. And it did. Jax Pinor Noir, a special blend of 2007 single-vineyard Pinots made by Sineann Winery [3]in Oregon's Willamette Valley, is light and delicate and summery. It enhances the mahi-mahi tacos without overpowering them, and the fruit in the wine nicely offsets the spicy red beans served on the side. But here's the rub: I would have enjoyed both the wine and tacos more if they hadn't been so grossly overpriced. I expect to pay $13 for a glass of aged Burgundy, but $13 for a young Pinot is excessive. And $22 for mediocre fried fish tacos borders on insulting. I've had fish tacos for a fraction of the price (Wahoo's [4] go for $5.99) that are twice as good. I left feeling that Jax' steady crowd of regulars had given the restaurant an exaggerated sense of itself. Yes, the wine is good---but in the end, not worth it. 1539 17th St., 303-292-5767