When I sit down for dinner at Bistro One [2], the first appetizer to usually catch my eye is the sumptuous crawfish mac and cheese. I enjoy everything about this dish, including the little white crock in which it is served and the savory bite of chef Olav Peterson's house-made bacon. But, in the name of branching out, I recently opted for the braised pork belly starter. The rich, melty hunk of pork comes with nicely seared ricotta gnocchi and creamy leeks---a delicious trade. This is, however, a dish to share, lest you spoil your appetite. Bonus: Stop by during happy hour (4 to 7 p.m. Tuesday through Sunday) and pair the app with a $4 glass of wine. 1294 S. Broadway, 720-974-0602