Last year, Wayne and Debbie Anderson took over Cilantro Mary, a funky Mexican restaurant in downtown Lyons, with the goal of breathing new life into the local dining scene. They brought in executive chef Todd Garston (from the now-closed SOBO American Bistro) and chef de cuisine Ian Rubenoff  (formerly of Q’s Restaurant [2]) to implement a farm-fresh menu. And this month, the couple rebranded the spot as Lyons Fork [3].

While the new concept has stepped up the eatery's finesse, the focus remains unclear. At times, the ever-changing menu feels contemporary American, with nicely plated dishes such as lamb carpaccio with Parmesan tuiles, fresh arugula, local microgreens, and a drizzle of lemon truffle oil. Other times, such as during brunch, the menu is all over the board, with everything from pulled-pork gyros to croissant breakfast sandwiches. All the offerings boast delicious flavors, but the lack of a unifying theme belies the strong kitchen talent.

The beverage selection, however, is razor-sharp. Choose from a well-edited collection of small-batch craft beers, or try a spicy Bloody Mary or killer margarita.

450 Main St., Lyons, 303-823-5014