Appetizers set the tone for a meal. Bad ones create wary diners. Good ones do the opposite. The spicy hummus starter at Citron New World Bistro [2] is among the latter. The simple dish perfectly conveys the straightforward, casual food that awaits at this south Denver spot.

The smooth, house-made hummus—a traditional blend of chickpeas, tahini, olive oil, lemon, salt, pepper, and garlic—gets a kick from a generous helping of cayenne pepper. Scoop a hunk onto a piece of grilled pita with some roasted red peppers, Greek olives, and feta (all served on the plate), and enjoy.

3535 S. Yosemite St., 303-771-5800