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I discovered empanadas—savory, stuffed Latin American turnovers—in Buenos Aires, Argentina. I was there for a month, and I ate them every day. My favorite was the beef mixed with green olives and raisins, which tasted similar to Cuban picadillo [2]. That was nearly 20 years ago but ever enchanted by the foodstuff, I still try empanadas any time I see them.
More often than not, the pastries are soggy, overworked, or haphazardly filled—in short, disappointing. Not so at the three-week-old Maria Empanada [3]. Located on the corner of Sheridan Boulevard and Mississippi Avenue, this tiny shop offers 15-plus, freshly baked, savory flavors. There's traditional beef (yes!), as well as mushroom with three-cheese sauce; sweet corn; blue cheese with olives and walnuts; and "tango" (which tastes like a Denver omelet [4]without the omelet). Owner Lorena Cantarovici's pastry is flaky, buttery, and light. Her fillings are expertly spiced and well portioned. Order a side of herby chimichurri and the spicy, Sriracha-like asado grill sauce for dipping.
Bonus: Don't miss the alfajores—one of my all-time favorite treats. Cantarovici's citrus-zested shortbread cookies are sandwiched with dulce de leche and rolled in shredded coconut. They look exactly like this [5] picture.
5209 W. Mississippi Ave., Lakewood, 303-934-2221
Links:
[1] http://www.5280.com/tag/authors/amanda-m-faison
[2] http://lindaraxa.blogspot.com/2009/05/classic-cuban-picadillo.html
[3] http://www.mariaempanada.com/
[4] http://bestdenveromelette.com/DenverOmeletteHistory.pdf
[5] http://www.recipegirl.com/2009/03/30/how-to-make-homemade-alfajores/