Jeremy Kittelson, formerly of Restaurant Avondale (where we loved the churros), has set up shop in the now-booming LoDo area [2]. The neighborhood's latest addition is his week-old Ambria [3], housed in the former Ling & Louie's spot on the 16th Street Mall. The restaurant offers a menu of Mediterranean-influenced eats in a contemporary space with a long community table, quirky light fixtures, and an exhibition kitchen.

Just days after opening, I stopped in for lunch. I began with an order of roasted parsnip hummus (pictured), which had a slightly sweet taste and a nice chunky texture. Aside from a small pool of oil at the bottom of the bowl, the appetizer was beautifully presented with the accompanying vegetables sitting on a bed of ice and warm pita on the side.

My lamb burger was tender and topped with tangy-sweet feta cheese and harissa aïoli. The side of cozy butternut squash and lentil soup (the soup du jour) was a hearty yet light accompaniment. Now if only those churros would show up the dessert menu....

1201 16th St., 303-623-8646