Several months ago, I—along with the rest of the culinary world—became obsessed with meatballs [2]. I continue to order the dish in sandwich [3]- or stand-alone form anytime I see it on a menu. Most recently, I tried the meatball appetizer at Charlie Palmer [4]'s two-week-old District Meats [5] in LoDo.

Where some meatballs are weighed down by filler, executive chef Jeff Russell's variation features tender veal and airy ricotta, which results in a combination that's comforting and substantial but still delicate. The accompanying fontina polenta lends subtle, creamy decadence. The best part: You could easily enjoy this starter (the serving size is two meatballs) with a salad and not be overwhelmed.

Bonus: District Meats now serves lunch Monday through Friday. And on Monday the 12th, its sister restaurant, Wazee Wood Fire Pizza, opens for business.

1625 Wazee St., 303-623-1630