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This time of year, I'm all eyes for ramps [2]—the garlicky, wild onions that are a sure sign of spring. The season is so fleeting and the supply so limited, that ramp-focused dishes are usually served as specials.
I caught my first glimpse of the allium over the weekend at Bittersweet [3], where chef and co-owner Olav Peterson showcased the vegetable in two dishes: a Parisian-inspired snails appetizer (pictured) with potato purée, sautéed ramps, and fried leeks; and the dazzling halibut cheeks with ramp-almond pesto and a succotash of sorts with spring squash and heirloom cherry tomatoes.
Other spots around town are using the spring bulb in equally exciting ways: At Elway's [4], chef Tyler Wiard, who says ramps are his favorite vegetable, creams, chars, smokes, and stirs them into flan, aïoli, and hollandaise. Inside Table 6 [5]'s kitchen, chef Scott Parker is considering ramp-speared scallops and black trumpet gnocchi. And Paul Reilly, chef-owner of Encore [6], envisions a dish of chicken-fried chicken livers and a BLT salad and ramp-yogurt ranch dressing.
Bonus: The best way to prolong the season is to pickle the vegetable. Look for these pickles to show up paired with rabbit or fish at Luca D'Italia [7] and even behind the bar in Second Home [8]'s bloody mary.
Bittersweet, 500 E. Alameda Ave., 303-942-0320
Elways's, 2500 E. First Ave., 303-399-5353
Table 6, 609 Corona St., 303-831-8800
Encore, 2550 E. Colfax Ave., 303-355-1112
Luca D'Italia, 711 Grant St., 303-832-6600
Second Home, 150 Clayton Lane, 303-253-3000
Links:
[1] http://www.5280.com/tag/authors/amanda-m-faison
[2] http://www.5280.com/magazine/2012/04/ramps
[3] http://www.bittersweetdenver.com/
[4] http://www.elways.com/
[5] http://www.table6denver.com/
[6] http://www.encoreoncolfax.com/
[7] http://www.lucadenver.com/
[8] http://www.secondhomedenver.com/