Chef Frank Bonanno isn't exactly known for dreaming up health food (ahem, Mizuna [2]'s lobster mac and cheese [3] and Osteria Marco [4]'s carbonara pizza [5]). The menu at Bones [6] skews similarly with butter-soaked lobster ramen and steamed buns stuffed with pork belly. That said, I almost always find a lighter option in the ba mee, the ever-changing vegetarian noodle bowl.

In fact, it’s in this dish and the soba bowl (the contents of which also change regularly), that I find some of Bonanno's most imaginative creations. On the current menu, the ba mee (pictured) is a springy carrot-ginger purée with asparagus, shredded bok choy, vegetable broth, lime mascarpone, and spiced peanuts. The broth is elegant and satisfying and—for a soup bowl—I'm impressed with the range of textures brought on by the quartered asparagus, julienned carrots, paper-thin fennel, al dente noodles, and, of course, those peanuts. Best of all, even with eating most of the entrée I didn’t feel weighed down or stuffed.

Bonus: Bones is a fantastic spot to take the kids [7], just go early.

701 Grant St., 303-860-2929