When T|aco opened in Boulder last Wednesday, it did so under the same premise—high-quality, modern eats at moderate prices—as H BurgerCo. [2], its parent company. That’s a lot to pack into a mission statement but the urban taquería delivers.

Case in point: chef Matt Collier (formerly of the Kitchen [3]) [3]serves a “Before Tacos” appetizer menu that includes the don’t-miss, refreshing red snapper ceviche (pictured) with a pile of crispy chips for about $6. And Collier’s array of inspired tacos, from braised pork belly to mescal-marinated shrimp, follow suit at $3.50 a pop. There are also tender skirt steak tacos with avocado and earthy strips of poblano rajas topped with Cotija cheese and a drizzle of crema. All of the tacos are served on fresh, house-made corn tortillas.

T|aco took over the old Boulder Organic Pizza spot on Walnut Street, and the facelift includes a spaghetti-western mash-up of vintage John Wayne posters, a beetle-kill pine bar, an open kitchen, and a dining room energized in part by wallpaper that mimics hand-woven Mexican tapestries.

1175 Walnut St., Boulder