If you've been tasked with bringing an appetizer—or dessert—to an upcoming holiday party, head to the Truffle Cheese Shop [2] on Sixth Avenue. There, owners Rob and Karin Lawler (and their experienced and passionate cheese specialists) will help you put together a trio of cheeses with contrasting tastes, shapes, and textures. I stopped in last weekend and came away with this impressive trio:

1. Époisses de Bourgogne (France): A classic washed-rind, cow's milk cheese that is delightfully pungent, slightly runny, and seductively creamy. A half round is plenty for a gathering of four.

2. Nocciolo (Italy): A white cube of goat and sheep's milk cheeses, which have been blended to create a mild, slightly tangy, easily spreadable cheese.

3. Roomano Pradera (The Netherlands): A hard, crumbly, and slightly nutty aged cow's milk gouda.

If presented as an appetizer, serve the cheese with slices of French baguette. If served after dinner, include sweet preserves (such as Primo [3]'s blackberry-serrano) or fresh fruit. Either way, be sure to serve the cheeses at room temperature. The flavors are more pronounced that way.

2906 E. Sixth Ave., 303-322-7363