I adore Boulder bakeshop Tee & Cakes ’ cupcakes, but they are not my regular order. I do not think of them at odd hours, I do not (often) order them for breakfast, nor have I spent time pondering their ingredients. This obsession is reserved for another treat in the pastry case: the M&M's sugar cookie.
I typically find sugar cookies lackluster and anemic-tasting, so it feels odd to have such reverence for Tee & Cake's version. Co-owner and pastry chef Kim Boos’ cookie is anything but boring: It’s large, full of brightly colored M&M’s (enough to find one in every bite), and has a crackly-crisp exterior with an indulgently soft center. Here's the kicker: The cookie is tangy with a cream cheese-like flavor that balances the sweetness.
Although I've wondered about the cookie's makeup for years, I finally asked Boos if she would share her secret. She was candid, divulging that cream of tartar , which she uses to stabilize the egg whites , produces the compelling, tangy flavor.
This ingredient (a fine powder derived from tartaric acid found in tart fruits) is a departure for sure. Google sugar cookie recipes and there's nary a mention of cream of tartar. Only when you do a more refined search do you come up with a handful of options—including this one  from Ree Drummond (aka the Pioneer Woman ). I'll work this cookie into my baking repertoire, but it'll never take the place of Tee & Cakes' treat.
Extra: Tee & Cakes' co-owner Brian Wood (who is also Boos' husband) is a graphic designer who sells his indie-inspired tees, mugs, letterpress prints, and more at the shop.
Got a cookie tip? Tell us where you go when the craving hits.
1932 14th St., Boulder, 720-406-7548
THIS STORY WAS PART OF 5280's 20 DAYS OF GIVEAWAYS!
Additional comments do not enter you into the giveaway, which ended March 26, 2013.