Bistro One 1294 S. Broadway, 720-974-0602, www.bistroonedenver.com
. If the bistro has an iconic sound, it's the clink of fork and knife on a plate, the hum of good conversation, and the ching-ching of wine glasses coming together to celebrate the end of a day, or maybe just dinner itself. And if the bistro has an iconic dish, it's the straightforward flavors of steak frites. This ultimate pairing of grilled meat and salted fries is the definition of classic. At Bistro One, a four-month-old spot on South Broadway, chef Olaf Peterson enhances the dish with tarragon butter on both the flatiron steak and the crisped potatoes. It's a simple addition, and a smart one. Where there's butter, there's happinessespecially when it melts over salt-and-peppered beef and golden fries. Briefly admire Peterson's addition before saying cheers and getting to the business of eating and enjoying.