From left: Chocolate custard dessert; culinary director Gregory Gourdet. Photos by Sarah Boyum.
The Draw: Ambitious fusion cuisine rooted in Asian flavors and techniques
The Drawback: Some dishes tend toward blandness
Don't Miss: Whole fried fish, crispy lamb cakes, Korean glass noodles, grilled tiger prawns, pork banh mi, chocolate custard...
You can make a meal from the appetizers alone
—Photo by Aaron Colussi
The Draw: Assertive, hearty food from Rome and Southern Italy
The Drawback: Service can be overly solicitous
Don’t Miss: The Coperta panino, tagliolini with shrimp and lemon, pappardelle with monkfish sugo, mozzarella and accompaniments, pecorino...
From left: A view from the long bar; Maine diver scallops and ricotta toast
Photography by Jennifer Olson
THE DRAW: Hearty wood-fired vegetables and meats, diverse small plates, tables for big groups
THE DRAWBACK: Loud room, some convoluted dishes, weak desserts
DON'T MISS: Roasted pork collar, roasted yams, raw fish plates, toasts
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From left: Diners at the sushi bar; the must-order miso black cod
—Photography by Sarah Boyum
98 N. Steele St., 303-329-6628
THE DRAW: Grand but welcoming room, adept service, inventive dishes, superb fish whether raw or cooked
THE DRAWBACK: Pricey, tables are a bit crowded
DON'T MISS: The omakase menu, any sushi or sashimi...
From left: The Preservery’s market space; squash and Burrata salad
—Photography by Aaron Colussi
THE DRAW: Bright urban-industrial space with good lunchtime sandwiches and evening music
THE DRAWBACK: Transition to dinner marred by uneven cooking and inattentive service
DON'T MISS: Salads, cocktails, octopus appetizer, chicken...
From left: Crunchy toast with tomatoes; chef Kyle Mendenhall —Photos by Carmel Zucker
THE DRAW: Kyle Mendenhall’s kitchen turns out rootsy, often inventive dishes that go well with a terrific wine, beer, cider, and cocktail program
THE DRAWBACK: Has yet to live up to its vaunted goals of blending traditions into a new definition of American cooking...
From left: The bustling dining room; Cafe Marmotte’s coq au vin. —Photography by Carmel Zucker
THE DRAW: A pleasantly eclectic room; classic bistro dishes
THE DRAWBACK: Inconsistent kitchen and several menu misfires
DON'T MISS: Anything braised, such as coq au vin or beef cheeks; onion tart; apps and wine at the small bar
Ordering from the omakase menu promises the most inspired of plates.
—All photography by Lauren DeFilippo
THE DRAW: Beautifully prepared omakase dinners at the sushi bar
THE DRAWBACK: À la carte menu can be hit-or-miss; deep-frying is a weak point
DON'T MISS: Omakase menu, chef’s nigiri picks, broiled hamachi collar, agedashi tofu