Given that I’m always in the mood for barbecue, I made my way to the tiny Piggin’ Out in Lakewood.

With no indoor seating, I recommend ordering take-out in the form of the smoky brisket-sandwich platter with sides of mapley baked beans and vinegar-tart coleslaw. Also good: the hot links sandwich, though I prefer links cut into rounds, rather than served whole.

Either way, Piggin’ Out follows the cardinal rule of barbecue, serving its meats naked, with sauce on the side. Pick hot or mild sauce–I favor the hot for its deeper, more interesting flavor–and slather away. With ‘cue this good, it’s curious that Brothers BBQ has a location not half a mile down the road.

9987 Morrison Road, Lakewood, 303-988-2749