Frank Bonanno’s four-month-old Asian spot, Bones, might be dubbed a noodle bar, but the steamed buns are such showstoppers that some diners never make it past the menu’s appetizer section. These soft, tacolike creations come three to a plate, stuffed with either savory braised pork belly (our fave) or delicate suckling pig. A liberal smear of hoisin imparts sweetness, and chopped scallions brighten each decadent bite. Cut the richness by pairing these eats with the tropical-tasting Chikurin Hou Hou Shu sparkling sake, and the buns will go so quickly you’ll consider another round.

Bones, 701 Grant St., 303-860-2929