Appetizers set the tone for a meal. Bad ones create wary diners. Good ones do the opposite. The spicy hummus starter at Citron New World Bistro is among the latter. The simple dish perfectly conveys the straightforward, casual food that awaits at this south Denver spot.

The smooth, house-made hummus—a traditional blend of chickpeas, tahini, olive oil, lemon, salt, pepper, and garlic—gets a kick from a generous helping of cayenne pepper. Scoop a hunk onto a piece of grilled pita with some roasted red peppers, Greek olives, and feta (all served on the plate), and enjoy.

3535 S. Yosemite St., 303-771-5800