Chef Bradford Heap of Salt Bistro in Boulder is a produce purist. Sure, he brines and grills meat and seafood, and he leans on pasta and polenta when appropriate. But Heap lets vegetables, in all their colorful, sweet glory, dominate. My favorite dishes at Salt (see our review), have always been those that layer fresh and crunchy flavors atop another.
And so it went last week when I ordered the sweet pea ravioli. In the dish, tender squares of green pasta filled with sweet pea purée were tossed with asparagus, zesty radish rounds, carrots, beets, and chewy oyster mushrooms. A light drizzle of lemon-butter sauce and a few fresh pea shoots completed the dish.
The contrasting colors and textures made this the kind of clean and understated plate that’s perfect for a hot summer evening.
1047 Pearl St., Boulder, 303-444-7258