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Officer’s Club’s towering Big Boy bacon burger. Photo by Marc Piscotty

Opening Alert: Officers Club

The new restaurant, which opened yesterday, serves up craft cocktails and massive portions as it pays homage to Lowry’s military past.

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Lowry has been a tough market for Denver restaurateurs. To wit: Troy Guard’s Lucky Cat and Justin Brunson’s Masterpiece Kitchen both shuttered fairly quickly after opening in the neighborhood. So, when chef Sterling Robinson (North County, Billy’s Inn, and Ernie’s Bar & Pizza) and Joe Vostrejs (Larimer Associates) began creating Officers Club, which opened in the Hanger 2 development yesterday, they ventured down a more familiar path, taking inspiration from Lowry’s past as an air force base.

The pair turned the former Masterpiece Kitchen space into a refined cocktail bar/intimate restaurant reminiscent of the military clubs of old. And the more traditional elements of the concept delivers just what you’d expect: heaping plates of American fare, from crab cakes to lacquered racks of ribs to a towering “Big Boy” double burger.

The cocktail program, on the other hand, adds something new to the area. “There was nowhere to get a grown-up cocktail in Lowry,” Robinson says. “North County is great, but it’s really a tequila and margarita house.” To fill that gap, Officers Club serves an extensive drink menu with nine variations on the old fashioned and other options like the wonderfully refreshing Nose Dive (vodka, Ancho Reyes verde, Licor 43, lime juice, and demerara syrup shaken with egg white).

Officers Club is open nightly for dinner, and plans to add lunch and brunch to the lineup soon. We hope it’s just what Lowry residents are looking for.

84 Rampart Way, 303-284-0714

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