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Photo by Aaron Colussi

At Beckon, Dinner Is the Show

Guests get front-row views of executive chef Duncan Holmes and his team as they sauté, slice, pour, and plate a bounty of Scandinavian-inspired courses.

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Forget the opera tickets: At four-month-old Beckon, dinner is the show. Inside the sophisticated, nighttime-only, tiny-house sibling of RiNo’s nationally lauded Call, 18 leather seats form a U-shape around executive chef Duncan Holmes’ open kitchen. From there, guests have front-row views of Holmes and his team as they sauté, slice, pour, and plate a bounty of constantly changing Scandinavian-inspired courses. (When we were there last, standouts included a savory lardo-draped æbelskiver and langoustines in a foamy lobster sauce.) Exquisite sourdough served with house-cultured butter and wine (or beer and cider) pairings from sommelier Zach Byers round out the meal, as do the elaborate coffee and tea setups guests receive after their desserts. To experience it for yourself, go online to book (and prepay for) your place at the counter. When you arrive at the cozy restaurant, Beckon’s cast, led by hospitality guru Allison Anderson, will guide you through a meal—and a performance—unlike any other in Denver. $95 per person (for pairings, add $65)

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