Visit one of Joshua Pollack’s Denver restaurants (including Rosenberg’s Bagels and Lou’s Italian Specialties) and you’ll be greeted with the food, culture, and family traditions he grew up with in the Big Apple. Take his latest endeavor, Sherry’s Soda Shoppe: The one-year-old Five Points eatery pays homage to Pollack’s late grandmother and favorite New Yorker, Sherry Rosenberg, and the vintage ice cream parlors she frequented in Brooklyn with her husband, Lou. Situated along the historic Welton Street corridor—an area that Pollack is passionate about thoughtfully revitalizing—Sherry’s sports an original 1892 storefront and, inside, refurbished wood paneling and black-and-white hexagonal tile floors. Pollack updated the interiors with charming touches that remind him of his grandmother—and perfectly complement the shop’s sugarcoated menu of scratch-made sodas and ice creams—including 1920s-inspired owl-patterned wallpaper from Finest Wallpaper in Vancouver, a sprinkling of houseplants and owl figurines, and a generous helping of the color pink. “Every time I walk in there, I’m just filled with so much love and joy, as if I were going to my grandmother’s house,” Pollack says. We think Sherry would be, too.

This article was originally published in 5280 Home February/March 2021.
Patricia Kaowthumrong
Patricia Kaowthumrong
Patricia joined the 5280 staff in July 2019 and is thrilled to oversee all of the magazine’s dining coverage. Follow her food reporting adventures on Instagram @whatispattyeating.