SubscribeCurrent Magazine Cover
Los Cabos’ ceviche mixto with fresh fish, scallops, calamari, and shrimp. Photo by Sarah Banks
Eat and Drink

How South American Fusion Fare Endures at Los Cabos in LoDo

Chef-owner Francesca Ruiz’s 33-year-old Peruvian restaurant survived the pandemic’s darkest days by serving cuisine from her homeland for takeout.

When chef-owner Francesca Ruiz shuttered the cult-favorite lunch buffet at her Peruvian restaurant, Los Cabos, due to COVID-19-related concerns in spring 2020, she anticipated the worst. Thankfully, demand for her distinctive, takeout-friendly family recipes ensured the 33-year-old business survived the pandemic’s most difficult days. Some of those dishes were inspired by immigrants—from Africa, China, and Europe—who helped shape Peruvian cuisine over the centuries. Sopa a la criolla is a Creole-inspired soup loaded with sirloin steak and angel hair pasta, while lomo saltado is a Chinese-style steak, onion, and tomato stir-fry served on a bed of french fries. Both are excellent choices at the loungy, red-walled restaurant, which Ruiz runs with the help of her sister Nelly Castillo. But the object of our true affection is the ceviche mixto, a medley of fresh seafood, red onion, and chunks of sweet potato tossed in a bright, ají-chile-spiked lime dressing. As pandemic restrictions are lifted across the state, the siblings—who are natives of Lima, Peru—want to educate more first-time patrons about their homeland’s cuisine in the now-open dining room. If that sounds like you, don’t wait to discover these Peruvian classics.

Los Cabos owner Francesca Ruiz (right) and her sister Nelly Castillo. Photo by Patricia Kaowthumrong

Sign Up For Our Newsletters

All things Colorado delivered straight to your inbox.

Sign Up