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The Odometer: Roughly 301 miles, one way from Denver (5 hours, 30 minutes)
Ouray offers one of the greatest reveals in all of Colorado. Arriving from the north on U.S. 550, the cliffs on each side of the road suddenly part, giving way to a 19th-century mining town surrounded by an iridescent box canyon. Perhaps due to those natural barriers, the historic downtown doesn’t appear to have changed much since enterprising silver hounds descended on the mountain meadow in the 1880s. But looks can be deceiving.
Inside the Victorian storefronts along Main Street (a National Historic District) reside a range of shops, restaurants, and bars that are amply outfitted to lavish visitors with modern comforts—that is, when Ouray guests aren’t out exploring a landscape so beautiful that it’s known as “the Switzerland of America.” (Our response? Switzerland should be so lucky!)
Jump Ahead:
What to Do Outside in Ouray
Tackle a Via Ferrata
Sure, Ouray is impressive from the ground, but nothing beats a bird’s-eye view of this box canyon. Earn an aerial eyeful on one of Basecamp Ouray’s guided via ferratas—though its Gold Mountain route (starts at $220 per person) looms above the rest. Owner Logan Tyler built the course himself during the pandemic on private land, meaning his guiding service is the only outfitter allowed to click into its cables. The route ascends 1,200 vertical feet and passes through the defunct Gold Mountain Mine and over a 287-foot suspension bridge—the second-longest on a via ferrata route in the country. Should you be brave enough to take your eyes off the four-inch-wide metal bridge, you’ll be rewarded with sweeping views of the San Juan Mountains and the historical town below.
Hike the Ouray Perimeter Trail
If you prefer a more grounded outdoor experience, check out the Perimeter Trail—a six-mile loop that circles the whole town. Hikers can hop on and off the trail at various points along the route, but the most convenient starting point is directly across from the Ouray Visitor’s Center on U.S. 550. Farther south, the trail merges for nearly a mile with Baby Bathtubs Trail (this path has its own trailhead off of Amphitheater Campground Road), which features tiny pools your kids can splash in. (Check conditions or talk with a local guide before venturing out. Parts of the trail are very narrow and can be treacherous when ice or snow is present.) For a shorter trek with big payoff, Cascade Falls Park, a few blocks off of Main Street at the end of Eighth Avenue, offers a quarter-mile hike to its namesake attraction, a torrent that drops about 280 feet down the cliffside.
Splash In the Ouray Hot Springs Pool
One of the most important attractions for families on vacation with little ones in tow is a solid swimming pool. The town’s famous Ouray Hot Springs Pool includes a lap pool for fitness fans, an overlook pool with an infinity-edge waterfall, and the family-friendly shallow pool perfect for kiddos—all filled with naturally heated, sulfur-free water. In operation since 1927, the historic Ouray Hot Springs Pool is located on the edge of the town and open seven days a week. Daily passes are $30 for adults, and $18 for kids ages three to 17.
Drive the Million Dollar Highway
The Million Dollar Highway is a 25-mile stretch of U.S. 550 between Ouray and Silverton. Part of the longer 236-mile San Juan Skyway, the Million Dollar Highway reaches an elevation of 11,000 feet at Red Mountain Pass and showcases plenty of peaks and waterfalls along the way. But don’t let your gaze linger on the scenery if you’re behind the wheel: The route features scores of switchbacks and hairpin turns, but no guardrails on some parts. If you have time, pull off at this parking lot about 11 miles south of Ouray to see remnants of the Idarado and Yankee Girl mines.
Climb at Ouray Ice Park
The main outdoor attraction in winter is Ouray Ice Park, which draws an average of 20,000 thousand adrenaline junkies annually to explore the nearly two miles of vertical ice-climbing terrain in the Uncompahgre Gorge. From mid-December to mid-March, experienced ice climbers can explore the public park on their own for free (we recommend visiting mid-week for minimal crowds). There are also numerous guide services nearby who offer courses in the park for all skill levels. Plan your trip for late January to catch the annual Ouray Ice Festival. Along with professional speed-climbing competitions, the fete also includes more than 100 educational clinics, live music, food, and an iconic dance party on Saturday night.
Ski Nearby Telluride
If shredding powder is what you’re after, it’s hard to beat the conditions in the San Juan Mountains. For resort schussing, head an hour southwest to Telluride Ski Resort, where you’ll find more than 2,000 skiable acres and an average snowfall of 280 inches. Backcountry skiers can get the lowdown on secret spots and avalanche safety from the experts at San Juan Mountain Guides, located in downtown Ouray.
Where To Eat in Ouray
With so much natural beauty to explore, you’ll need something quick but hearty to start your day—in other words, you’ll need a breakfast burrito. If the adventure ahead of you requires an abundance of carbs, pop into Yankee Girl Cafe on Main Street for a two-hander that could easily cover breakfast, lunch, and dinner. (If for some reason it doesn’t, pop back in at lunchtime for the speciality beer-battered shrimp tacos.) For more modest appetites, the Ouray Grocery sells grab-and-go options that are premade, but don’t taste like it.
When it’s time to hang up your trekking poles, grab a barstool at Ouray Brewery, which pours house-made brews, like the flavorful yet balanced 550 Red Ale, and offers a healthy roster of classic pub fare—including a basket of dry-rub chicken wings that are “hotter than Stacy’s mom.”
Or, swap your hiking boots for Blundstones, and reserve a seat at the chef’s counter at the Western Grill. Inside the recently renovated hotel of the same name, watch chef John Broening (formerly of Denver’s Spuntino) prepare lamb, porterhouse, and New York strip over a wood-fired stove. For a nightcap, belly up to the bar at the Outlaw Restaurant—an old-timey joint with an extensive cocktail menu that has been around for so long, it was a favorite haunt of John Wayne’s while the actor was in town filming True Grit in the late 1960s.
Where To Stay in Ouray
Since its birth in 1891, the Western has lived many lives—as a boarding house, a brothel, and even a morgue. But by 2020, the wood-frame building’s best days were behind it: The city had condemned both its basement and its third floor. That’s when Denver developer Kyle Zeppelin, whose Source Hotel and Marketplace helped spark RiNo’s resurgence, bought the Western. Having grown up in Breckenridge, Zeppelin was fascinated by historical saloons and intent on preserving this one’s frontier allure.
A subsequent three-year renovation unearthed forgotten relics, including “Jezebel,” a portrait of a black-haired woman who had been imprisoned under decades of varnish on the bar’s hardwood floors. (The same visage used to adorn dozens of saloons across the state; one myth maintains the unknown artist traded the painting in return for free drinks.) Meanwhile, Zeppelin’s new additions—a taxidermied mountain lion roaring over the bar, antique Olympia typewriters in every room—feel original or just plain necessary: A single toilet used to serve 40 boarding rooms. Now, there are 16 suites, each of which features its own kitchen, fireplace, and, yes, tastefully appointed bathroom.
The basement has also been revived. Even before the city condemned it, the space had a spectral vibe: Miners used to store their dead in the Western’s basement during the winter, when the ground was too hard to yield a grave. Zeppelin turned the basement into the Grotto, which boasts a giant hot tub, sauna, and cold plunge, and is free to all guests. In adjoining treatment rooms, lodgers can book an appointment with a master esthetician or a massage therapist.
For a different perspective on Ouray’s history, reserve a room at the Beaumont Hotel. Originally built in 1886, the “flagship of the San Juans” has hosted iconic figures such as President Theodore Roosevelt, King Leopold of Belgium, and Oprah Winfrey. Once revered as one of the grandest hotels in Colorado, the Beaumont has a stunning, historically preserved lobby anchored by a grand staircase that leads to 12 comfortable guest rooms.
Where To Shop in Ouray
Did you really go to a mountain town if you don’t leave with a custom Western hat? Design your dream lid at the Mercantile Ouray’s hat bar, which is stocked with feathers, pins, and branding tools. For an eccentric browsing environment, head to the Blue Pear, a self-professed “merchant of marvels, peddler of dreams,” for candles, makeup, travel sketch books, and, should Ouray’s beauty inspire the poet inside of you, haiku cubes. Bibliophiles should beeline for Ouray Books. The cozy, underground space is stocked with bestsellers, vacation reads, and a delightfully idle shop dog whose I’ve-got-nowhere-to-be attitude is inspirational.
