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Sometimes it really is okay to play with your food. Sink your teeth into Adega’s newest novelty item. The Wine Bar Dinner menu allows diners to reminisce about the old days of kitsch, with TV-tray dinners. Yep. That’s the same Adega you’re thinking of, the swanky eatery across from Union Station. Of course, the food is the same high quality as what you get in the main dining room, but the quirky presentation has apparently received some mixed reviews. The idea is intended to be fun and interactive, but during last night’s visit I was told that some diners don’t appreciate the humor of the concept. I guess some people don’t believe that fine dining can and should be fun. On the other hand, those of us who don’t take things too seriously — and rather enjoy playing with our food — will find the experience immensely entertaining. Here’s how it works. The menu is served nightly in the wine bar until midnight (perfect for late-night snacking). You choose from a list of available items; start by picking one “protein” (smoked trout with apple hollandaise, cap steak au jus) , then you can choose your sides, conveniently organized into starches and veggies. We tried the penne and cheese (delish), cornbread stuffing, roasted winter squash, and carmelized root veggies. Then the mix & match dinner is served up – complete with a little dessert — in a stylized ceramic version of those old compartmentalized TV tray dinner tins. And the best part? These tasty treats all come in at a wallet-friendly price range of $15 – $19, considerably less than the regular dinner menu. The only thing missing is the sofa and the television. But I’m pretty sure you won’t mind.