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Best Bites: Central Bistro’s Pork Chop

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Quick: What comes to mind when you think “pork chop?” Tough? Chewy? Dry? That’s often my experience as well. But the pork chop I enjoyed recently at Central Bistro and Bar has given me a new set of adjectives: savory, succulent, tender—I could go on. Truly, this was one of the best servings of pork I’ve ever encountered.

Curious how so much juice and flavor could be coaxed from a simple chop, I asked then-executive chef Lance Barto to reveal his secret. (Although Barto left the restaurant earlier this month, his dish remains). The meat is brined overnight in a mix of coriander, juniper, black pepper, and salt. Then, the chop is cooked slow and low using the sous vide method. When the meat is done, it’s finished simply with salt, pepper, and a mustard jus. Because the cut is so flavorful on its own, it doesn’t need a cloying sauce to accompany or mask it.

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FYI: Gerard Strong, who worked as Barto’s sous, has taken over the executive chef role.

1691 Central St., 303-477-4582

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