Fans of Southern food will feel right at home at Sassafras American Eatery in Jefferson Park. The menu (it’s the same for both breakfast and lunch) is deep with staples such as biscuits and gravies, gumbo, beignets, and po’ boys. And then there are the fried green tomatoes, which can be ordered folded into an eggs Benedict or tucked into a sandwich.
The Benedict version gets the most play (and why not, there’s cornbread, hollandaise, and sun-dried tomato vinaigrette) but I choose the sandwich every time. The dish is lighter and I love the peppery snap of the fresh arugula, the tang of the goat cheese, and the sweetness of the vinaigrette against the toasted bread. The tomatoes—crispy and cornmeal-dusted—actually have a chance to standout. Plus, the sandwich is fall-apart-on-your-plate messy, which I consider a mark of expert layering.
You can add bacon (there’s really no need), and there’s the choice of potato salad or fries (order the latter, the potato salad was far too mayo-y for my tastes). You can also do yourself in with a milk shake swirled with toppings that range from salted chocolate pretzels to Twinkies.
Neighborhood Bonus: Jefferson Park—an area we pegged as on the rise in 2010—gains another restaurant this week: The much-anticipated Corner House opens on Friday, January 11, at 22nd Avenue and Clay Street. Led by chef Matt Selby (a 15-year veteran of Vesta Dipping Grill, Steuben’s, and Ace Eat Serve), the eatery will serve breakfast, lunch, and dinner.
Sassafras, 2637 W. 26th Ave., 303-433-0080
Corner House, 2240 Clay St., 720-287-1895