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When fresh figs show up in the produce aisle, I buy them almost daily. The season—there are two, actually—is fleeting and to me, there’s nothing quite like the earthy sweetness of the dense fruit. So, when I saw the panna cotta with port wine gelee, fresh figs, and a house-made fig newton listed on Twelve Restaurant‘s menu earlier this week, I ordered it.
Served in a mini glass jar, the panna cotta was smooth and delicate, and beautifully offset by a layer of port wine gelee. But the star of the dish was the cookie—a gussied up version of the famed Nabisco newton. When I asked chef-owner Jeff Osaka about the treat, he explained that the cookie’s filling incorporates dried black mission figs, orange zest, and port to find a round flavor that isn’t overly sweet. For depth, Osaka adds chocolate powder to the dough. The final result: A chewy, robust, and balanced combination that pays homage to the lovely fig.
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As terrific as the combination might be, Osaka is wedded to seasonality (he changes the menu monthly). The dessert—like the figs themselves—is short-lived. Go now.
2233 Larimer St., 303-293-0287
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