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Jill's current lobster po'boy —Photo by Carol W. Maybach

In Search of St Julien’s Lobster Sandwich

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Sick of dodging raindrops but wanting to take in mountainous views, I ducked into the lobby of the St Julien Hotel. I was attracted by the memory of an open-face sandwich I had there not long ago: a toasted buttery brioche piled high with sautéed lobster, shrimp, and crispy bacon, brightened by Boston lettuce, freshly roasted tomato, and herbed aïoli.

I never trust a website to give me a current menu, so when the craving hit, I called the St Julien to see if my favorite sandwich was still on the menu at Jill’s. Assured that it was, I made a reservation and headed over. Despite being confirmed by the hostess, the sandwich was nowhere to be found. Instead, a similar but much less satisfying po’boy took its place. Served with breaded shrimp on a chewy baguette without the crispy bacon or roasted tomatoes (not to mention the cleanly sautéed seafood or delicate brioche), it missed the same buttery, salty, fresh-from-the-sea combination that made the open-faced version shine.

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In addition, when I arrived for my 11:40 reservation, the server made it quite clear that any orders placed for the dish before the stroke of noon would not be tolerated. Although I was quite willing to wait—I perfectly understand how restaurants need to change their lines for service—the brusque response seemed curt and uncalled for. My craving remains, but between the sandwich bait-and-switch and the unprofessional service, I am reluctant to return. 900 Walnut St., Boulder, 1-877-303-0900

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