Just a few weeks in, the mood at new Revelry Kitchen has hit a cheery note that bodes well for a place that aims to be a neighborhood morning and mid-day hangout. If a recent brunch is any indication, the food from chef Enrique Socarras is promising. Consider the lobster deviled eggs, $7. As someone who recently moved from the deep South, where I received considerable instruction in devilry, I can pronounce this version exemplary: rich lobster flavor and bits of lobster meat in a creamy yolk mash, topped by a strip of tarragon, more lobster, and some red pepper, all resting on a mayo that’s like a supercharged Thousand Island dressing.
A little plate of tequila-cured gravlax with toasts, half-sour pickles, fried capers, and an egg ($8), was also good. Revelry’s menu spans lamb pot pie or Palisade peach pancakes with a spicy maple syrup—both specials—to regular items such as a roast vegetable hash, a daily quiche, and roasted pumpkin cinnamon rolls.
Decor is a thrift-shop mishmash, with lots of clashing woods, in a brick and glass box that faces the dreary traffic on 38th Avenue. But somehow it works, because of the friendly vibe. Perch on one of the blue metal counter stools, and you’ll soon be yakking with staff, who top your coffee regularly, diner-style. There’s lots to drink, of course, and the area seems thirsty: gin fizzes, mimosas, bloody marys, and beer were flowing before noon.
Revelry Kitchen would be a happy addition to any Denver neighborhood but is especially welcome on this southern edge of Berkeley.
4140 W. 38th Ave., 303-455-3132