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Order It: Masterpiece Kitchen’s Pastrami

At Justin Brunson's new Lowry spot, the pastrami is house-made.

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Honestly, when chef Justin Brunson opened Masterpiece Kitchen in Lowry last week, I found myself wondering if it would be worth the drive. I live west of the city, so Lowry is pretty far out of my way. Plus, after scanning the menu, I realized that most of the dishes—like the truffle egg salad sandwich and the fried chicken—could be had at one of the Masterpiece Delicatessen locations, or at Old Major (or its lunch pop-up, Royal Rooster).

But there’s one notable exception: the pastrami. While both Masterpiece Deli locations serve a bang-up pastrami sandwich, there’s a key difference in Masterpiece Kitchen’s version. At MPK, that pastrami is made in-house. That’s thanks to the extra kitchen space, Brunson says.

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And the result is the best pastrami I’ve had in recent memory: fatty in the best possible way, salty but not overly so, and sliced just right. Order it on the classic sandwich (Swiss cheese, coleslaw, Thousand Island dressing on rye) or get it atop one of the juicy flat-top seared burgers. Either way, it’s well worth the drive.

84 Rampart Way, 720-324-8873

Callie Sumlin, Associate Food Editor

Callie Sumlin creates stories for 5280's Eat & Drink section, manages the dining guide, and oversees 5280.com's digital food-related coverage and weekly e-newsletter, Table Talk.

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