Love It: Frank's Kitchen

October 26 2011, 11:30 AM

Just down the road from the perennially popular Tom's Home Cookin', you'll find the five-month-old Frank's Kitchen. Aside from catering after-service meals for their church, this is Frank and Dina Berta's first foray into the food industry. Dina works the counter and offers her favorites (banh mi, hojo grilled chicken sandwich, and the jerk chicken plate), while Frank cooks in the back. Orders are communicated with an over-the-shoulder, "Hey, Frank, we need a cheeseburger." These are no-frills, down-home eats—and I can't wait to go back.

The chicken banh mi (pictured), though not traditional, tasted fresh, crunchy, and punched through with five-spice and fiery jalapeños. The filling smoked brisket sandwich was robust even without an extra dousing of sweet, house-made barbecue sauce. With both, the side of vinaigrette slaw refreshed and was blissfully mayo-less. A "boat" of crispy fries—half sweet potato, half regular—rounded out lunch. Frank's food is nothing fancy, but it's deeply satisfying in a home-cooked kind of way.

Tip: Stop by on a Friday for Frank's $8.50 fish fry special: cornmeal-breaded cod or tilapia, fries, slaw, and a slice of Italian bread. Splurge on a hazelnut milkshake.

2600 High St., 303-296-3838