Now Open: Pearl Street Steak Room
Like it or not, steak houses, such as the elegant Capital Grille in Larimer Square or the modern Edge Restaurant & Bar, set expectations high. I want gracefully lit (if masculine) dining rooms, impressively cooked steaks, and details that are fussed over so I don't even notice them. At the end of such a meal, I don’t mind paying the final bill because every bite, every moment, was worth the price.
To that end, I was disappointed when I pushed away from the table at the new Pearl Street Steak Room in Boulder. The young venture from Peter and Mara Soutiere is still working out its kinks, and the dining room needs finessing before it can be called exceptional. The space, though small, feels cold and sparse, with lighting that glares rather than softens. Plates are awkward, as they don’t allow the beautiful Oneida steak knives to sit easily on the edge and make graceful dining next to impossible.
Details aside, the true measure of a steak house is the steak itself. Although the Soutieres spent months researching the Australian Wagyu and naturally raised California Holstein they serve, steaks served solo on the plate can’t wow customers if they arrive less than perfectly cooked. Deeply charred, the meat in both the Holstein and Wagyu rib-eyes was overcooked, a travesty for any cut but especially when paying $46 and $45, respectively.
One bright note: Chef Matt Tobin’s duck confit appetizer, with golden brown, crispy skin accented with a smooth port wine reduction, sweet potato hash, Haystack Mountain goat cheese, and a duck egg.
1035 Pearl St., Boulder, 303-938-9604
Completely Disagree!
I may not be some professional reviewer who earns their money finding fault, but I have been to many steak houses and this one is right there with the best. It isn't a large, dark wood, dimly lit place that is so typical. It is a small room with incredible steaks and great service.
From a "laymans" perspective, we absolutely enjoyed everything about our experience here! I enjoyed the fact that it isn't just a copy-cat steak house.
Hold on! Hold On!!
I too was at the Pearl St Steakroom in Boulder. Only one week old, I expected there would be some kinks to work out. I ordered the crab cakes, and the beef tartar. Both apps were incredible. The crab cake was light and fluffy, and my taste buds could hardly keep up with the tartar. Every true steak eater knows you order steak cooked medium rare at the most! Mine came out between rare and medium rare (just the way I ordered it). While I wouldn't say it was the best steak I've ever had, I'm having a hard time thinking of a better one. The steak reminded me of Harris Steakhouse in San Francisco, or the Met in Seattle. Like I was off in a private, more intimate, room of a larger Steakhouse. With only 35 seats, and a miniature sized space, steak eaters in Boulder should continually fill the Pearl St Steak Room.