Feature

Rise & Dine

Ahh, breakfast. The smell of sizzling bacon alone brings back the Saturday mornings of childhood. And while the meal was ignored for too long by serious restaurants, that’s no longer true. Here, our favorite 64 spots for morning eats.

March 2011

The Elusive Bacon-Egg-and-Cheese

While working two delivery jobs in New York years ago, I made it my mission to try breakfast sandwiches at every deli I came across. Crispy bacon, a slightly runny egg, and a melted slice of cheese, all cooked to order and crammed into a soft kaiser roll: It’s breakfast perfection. Denver, unfortunately, is home to an abundance of lousy breakfast sandwiches, featuring microwaved-egg hockey pucks, flaccid slices of bacon, and awful bread. For a few years, I limited myself to the very solid N.Y.-style sandwich at Deli Zone in LoDo (1601 Blake St., 720-904-1000, delizone.net), though I’d advise ordering it with one egg instead of two, to let the bacon and cheese shine through. Recently, though, I’ve made a bunch of joyful breakfast sandwich discoveries. The whizzes at Masterpiece Delicatessen in LoHi (1575 Central St., 303-561-3354, masterpiecedeli.com) cook up a bacon-egg-and-cheese on a bagel that’s so flavorful you can leave the hot sauce on the table. And although I’m a traditionalist—bagel or roll, please—the egg sandwiches on house-made biscuits at Hi-Rise (2162 Larimer St., 303-296-3656, hirisedenver.com) have won me over with their rich, pillowy goodness. Finally, for a true New York deli experience, I head south to The Bagel Deli & Restaurant (6439 E. Hampden Ave., 303-756-6667, thebageldeli.com), a family joint that’s been around for 53 years but escaped my attention until lately. Their egg sandwich with beef “baken” is a hearty, meatier take on the traditional sandwich. Don’t forget a few black-and-white cookies to go. —Patrick Doyle

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